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Aoife OConnell chronicles
the adventure in the diary below:
Day 016> Tuesday
17 September > Nice
Since arriving in France, Mike has delighted
in showing off his knowledge of the region.
Partial to the finer things in life, Mike
and the team flew into Nice airport in a
plane sponsored by an Irish businessman:
"It was just fantastic arriving into
Nice by private jet rather than low cost
airline - definitely the only way to travel".
France was always going to be a high point
for Mike who had established contact with
the Jubilee Sailing Trust, an organisation
that provides adventure sailing for able-bodied
and physically disabled people. Docked at
Nice port was the Tenacious Tall ship, the
trust's pride and joy. The 'Tenacious' cost
a total of 14.3 million but has some amazing
facilities on board such as lifts between
all decks, vibrating alarm pads fitted to
bunks and Braille signs throughout. Certainly
a sight to behold, the huge ship was easily
recognisable amongst the pleasure boats
and yachts docked at Nice.
"The
first glance of Tenacious was wonderful,
after months of only seeing pictures of
her" said Mike.
The evening before the sailing, the crew
invited the team on board for a tour of
the ship and to sample the culinary delights
of the on-board barbeque. Having encountered
less than acceptable levels of wheel chair
accessibility through out this journey to
date, Mike was delighted to find that the
Tenacious had put time and effort into researching
disability facilities:
"The ship has a very well thought out
design, making it accessible to its disabled
crew. It is very impressive, in that it
allows every body to take part in the sailing
and the 'looking after' of the ship".
Not only did France offer Mike a chance
to sample the delights of the vineyards
but also to meet with old friends. On board
the Tenacious, Mike bumped into Bill Thornton,
a fellow adventurer from a few years back.
"It was an amazing coincidence to meet
up with Bill again, who had done the wheelchair
relay from Paris to Santiago de Compo Stella,
like myself. Bill was only one of two people
to complete the whole distance of 1200km
he
was full of admiration for the Around the
World in Eighty Ways mission and will be
talking to his contacts in Thailand on our
behalf"
France also presented Mike with the opportunity
to meet with a very special friend of his,
Birgitta Forssius. Mike describes Birgitta,
who lives in Monaco, as his 'nearly Aunt'.
Birgitta was due to marry Mike's uncle,
but tragically Nigel died suddenly before
the wedding could take place. Birgitta and
Mike have remained close friends and according
to Mike: "Birgitta has worked tirelessly
on behalf of the ATW80W team, even down
to having a cello and a violin duo serenading
us as we docked in Monte Carlo".
Birgitta, who organised sponsored hotel
rooms and a wonderful celebratory dinner
at one of Monaco's top restaurants, also
arranged an interview on board the ship,
with a French television station, which
Mike described as "quite testing".
He added: "interviews are not easy
at the best of times but in French they
are verging on the impossible!"
It certainly has been a 'hands on' adventure
for Mike who even managed to convince the
ship's crew that he be allowed sail the
Tenacious:
"It was a great privilege to take the
helm of the Tenacious ship up to the entrance
of the Monte Carlo port
and not bump
into anything
So far this has been
a journey of incredible contrasts from driving
Land Rovers around assault courses in England
to riding a horse in Carlow for the first
time since my injury, to sailing a tall
ship in the Mediterranean!"
Mike describes the stay in Carlow (Ireland)
as "hugely moving". The whole
experience was a revelation for Mike, who
got to ride in a saddle belonging to renowned
disabled Carlow man and MP Arthur McMurragh
Kavanagh, who travelled through Europe and
Asia on horse back over a hundred years
ago:
"It was a fantastic honour to ride
in a historic saddle, restored especially
for my visit
Mr. McMurragh Kavanagh
must have been a remarkable man to have
regularly hunted and travelled on horse
back despite having no arms or legs."
Hitherto Mike has had some incredible adventures
of his own in Europe, no doubt he will bring
new meaning to the phrase "following
in his footsteps" as Mike and the team
prepare to launch their own adventure in
Asia in a couple of weeks time. Foot-steps
we may not all have, but paths to glory
we can surely manage!
Day 017 > Wednesday
18 September > Nice
Technology and the team:
A day in the life of the techi team - Around
the World in Eighty Ways
I am firmly of the opinion our bags would
be about twenty two stone lighter if we
lost the technology. We are like walking
techi's. People who pass us in the street
must imagine we are piloting new phones
or testing new walkie talkies or perhaps
we are all from a television station, radio
station or newspaper.
Everywhere we go each team member has a
phone stuck to their ear, the dicta-phone
whirling, the camera rolling or the mini-disk
recording. Each morning this kit, together
with laptops, chargers, extension leads,
adapters, and a billion other gadgets are
loaded in to the transport or vehicle of
choice. Of course it is fantastic to have
all these thingamajigs until they start
to play up or are given to temperamental
lapses of good behaviour.
So far something as 'simple' as accessing
the internet has been major head ache for
the team. You start off plugging your modem
into the phone line, cross your fingers
and hope for the best. Then you get that
rotten little message popping up on your
screen delightedly telling you; "Sorry
but your modem isn't working" or your
phone line isn't plugged in or some other
useless piece of information as you stare
dumbly at the screen.
Keeping in mind its now probably well after
10pm, you've been up since 6:30am, gone
jogging, met 57 people, drank 6 coffees,
had lunch with some-one supposedly very
N.B, have 3 new modes of transport under
your belt, have tripped over a step, bumped
into a pole, been hoisted from vehicle to
vehicle, spoken about disability for half
an hour to some VIP's, smiled till your
cheeks ached, lost a bit off your wheelchair,
posed for your photo 36 times, had an interview
in broken French, carried the 11 suitcases
up 4 flights of stairs , strained your back,
ate something dodgy, after all these every
day activities you sit down to send a few
bloody emails and do you think the state
of the art technology would work - not on
your life!
A deep breath, perhaps a glass of wine later,
you try connecting to your mobile phone
and if you finally connect to the damn thing
you are guaranteed to be sitting in front
of your laptop for at least two hours trying
to send one word document! You could instead
get very excited when you walk into your
hotel room and find that there is internet
access on your television. You trip over
yourself trying to grab the remote control
and the keyboard but alas there are no batteries
in the remote or perhaps the keyboard is
just having an off day.
It is then, and only then you reach the
point where you are clutching the keyboard
with white knuckles, in a tight little voice
you whisper foul language into its various
data ports and vow to throw the thing against
the nearest wall, if it does not behave
its bloody self and send the damn email!
Alas, again! The tiny international techi
espionage that live inside your computer
are too busy destroying files, losing your
work, not responding to commands and ignoring
phone lines to listen to the death threats
you whisper through the USP port. Unfortunately
for you the tiny terrorists are far too
absorbed in their work to notice your mini
heart attack and subsequent collapse on
the floor!
The joy that is technology will be with
us as we travel around the world in eighty
ways, lucky us.
Day 018 > Wednesday
19 September > Rome
It seems I spoke to soon.
Yesterday I ranted about the team's difficulty
with technology; today that difficulty reached
a dire level. Perhaps we were too positive
and buoyed by our message and the response
to 'Eighty Ways' that we neglected to remember
the presence of real evil and opportunism.
Last night got off to a great start. It
was the beginning of our first adventure
stage. We crammed into the tiny sleeper
cabin on the 9:03pm train from Monte Carlo
to Rome, tired and hungry; we shared a picnic
together in the shabby and foul smelling
cabin. It really was like something from
a film as the boys leaned out of the window
and bought two bottles of Chianti from a
passing vendor. Drinking Chianti from paper
cups the whole team shared loaves of bread
and passed cheese, ham and chocolate amongst
each other. The spirit of friendship, respect
and camaraderie was alive and well in that
train that night until a stranger came and
smashed it.
Mike our camera-man whom we affectionately
call 'Carbonara', volunteered to sleep in
the cabin next door as all of the team and
their bags could not all sleep in the one
'sleeper'. Sometime in the middle of the
night, a thief stole his television camera
and my kit bag as he slept.
When we woke the next morning Mike was darting
in and out of both cabins and it became
obvious something was very wrong. By then
the train had still not reached Rome station,
so all we could do was sit and think about
this person or persons who had stole from
us. The sickening thing about the crime
is we were probably marked out from the
start as being vulnerable. We were obvious.
We had bags, white sticks, camera's, wheelchairs,
equipment and of course disability. Once
again we were the easy target. Thieves are
notorious in Italy for their adept skill,
I'm sure it was not just one opportunist
on that train that night but an covetous
pairing or a band of thieves that spotted
us as lambs for the slaughter.
Revenge and retribution are not the answer
but what comes around goes around. Karma
is a worn out and often ridiculed idea,
but it has been around long enough to convince
me these people will get what is coming
to them. At the very least they will find
it extremely hard to sell a professional
television camera to some one in the industry.
To say Mike was upset is an understatement.
He felt as though everything he worked for
was destroyed in one foul swoop. I'm sure
he wondered about the justice of taking
a chance on a charity and then being robbed,
giving up time, money and energy to help
spread a positive message and then have
it revoked by such a negative malevolent
one is the greatest wrong.
I suppose the team's innocent idea, that
everyone is on our side was lost with the
camera and the bag. Unfortunately that cannot
be replaced. Not everyone believes in the
message. Not everyone is positive. Not everyone
wants to help and share in this. If anything
their negativity and disbelief makes our
will stronger and our voices louder.
"The higher you build
your barriers the taller I become
because there is something inside so strong,
I know that I can make it though you're
doing me wrong so wrong"
Stolen equipment:
one Panasonic camera - broadcast quality
- thirteen thousand pounds kit bag containing:
3 dictaphones, a charger for a canon digital
ixus camera, world wide computer adapters,
world wide modem adapters, mini disks and
recorded footage, recorded interviews, notes,
books, kit jacket, blank tapes, pens, notebooks,
recording wires, etc.
Day 020 > Sunday
21 September > Italy
It is exactly a week since Caroline and
the team enjoyed the very grand finale to
the Irish lap of Around the World in Eighty
Ways, in Dublin Castle. I spoke to Caroline
about her thoughts and memories of the Irish
tour:
"When we arrived into Northern Ireland
late on September 10th, Although I had only
been away for a week or so, it was fantastic
to come home and be greeted by the real
warmth of Irish people.
Travelling through Dundalk, Roscommon, Galway,
Carlow and Dublin, I suppose what struck
me most, was the sense of people getting
behind you and supporting you and getting
excited about what you are trying to do.
Throughout the Irish leg of the trip, the
team and I met many great characters like
Mattie who drove the tipper truck, Ollie
who drove the Garda car, and Paul, in Carlow,
our baby-faced pilot who dressed up as Superman
for his flight, and of course Seamus who
drove us to Dublin in a vintage limo. It
was these 'helpers', together with so many
other generous people that made the Irish
experience so special. I was incredibly
proud to be Irish. There was a terrific
sense of fun and craic particularly in Carlow,
where the organisers had put so much into
it that you couldn't but give it socks and
really enjoy it!
We received a warm welcome in each town
visited in Ireland, like when we stopped
at a pub in Mullingar and the locals sitting
at the bar made a surprise collection for
the team and presented it to we stunned
adventurers. People in Dundalk Institute
of Technology laid on delicious food for
us, Catherine Campbell in Roscommon put
us up for the night and gave us breakfast.
Absolutely everywhere we went people made
a special effort."
The Irish route had many weird wonderful
forms of transport from tipper trucks, to
helicopters to cardboard boats:
"It was these contrasts
that made the time in Ireland amazing. An
executive helicopter dropping us in Dundalk
and then being picked up by a tipper truck
then
on to Roscommon where the Gardai and members
of the Galway Fire station transported us
to Galway
even riding side-saddle into
Carlow town on horseback!"
From Carlow the team made their way to the
East Wall in Dublin on September 13th where
they boarded a cardboard boat designed for
them by Smurfit; "The cardboard boat
rounded off the Irish route with the same
sense of madness that we began with and
was without a shadow of doubt the most unusual
and memorable form of transport to date
- but the Carlow day really stands out in
my mind. It felt very historic and so upbeat.
I think sitting side saddle on a pony at
Carlow Court House in the evening sun, is
a memory that will remain with me always
it
was such an amazing day".
"The sense of support, encouragement
and fun and the winning attitude of Carlow
people was incredible. People like Colette
Morrissey, Phil Fleming, Mary King O'Connell
and Eileen Brophy from the Rotary Club,
who got behind us 100%, astounded me. There
has been no other place so far on this journey
where we have felt so welcomed. The support
from the Carlow Farmers Hunt was incredible,
They stood around for hours just for us,
as did Tom Tynan and Teresa Brooks with
their fantastic steam engine!"
Caroline, who nominated the Jack and Jill
Children's Foundation as the Irish beneficiary
of Around the World in Eighty Ways found
the entire Irish leg very special for another
very real reason: "Meeting Jack and
Jill Children in Galway and seeing Miles
and Mike with the families was a real highlight.
One of the reasons we are doing this trip
in Ireland is precisely to take time to
meet with some of the profoundly disabled
children who benefit from The Jack &
Jill Children's Foundation. When we meet
them, it's a reminder of how far we still
have to go to fully include and support
all people with disabilities and their families.
The Jack and Jill Gala dinner at Dublin
Castle had a real sense of occasion, but
the reception at the Delta Centre in Carlow
was definitely one of my top favourites."
The parents of brave little boy, Adam Dooley
Byrne, were present with their two and a
half year old son at the event in the Delta
Centre. Adam's aunties were also at the
reception and handed over a cheque for E1200
to the Jack and Jill Foundation, which they
raised by running the women's marathon.
Adam has a very unusual medical condition,
in that he cannot metabolise fat. As a result
of this Adam has had some serious medical
difficulties and cannot walk or talk, but
he still laughs and smile. Adam did plenty
of this when he came to the Delta Centre
and was enchanted by the various sights,
sounds and textures that the multi-sensory
unit at the centre provided.
Caroline was delighted to meet Adam and
his family: "I think the whole team
was touched by the special effort that Adam
and his family made, it really struck a
chord with all of us. Now that Adam will
get to use the centre once a week, makes
me feel that Around the World in Eighty
Ways has achieved something really special."
The Around The World in Eighty Ways team
and the Jack and Jill Children's Foundation
wish to thank everyone in Dundalk, Roscommon,
Galway, Carlow and Dublin who helped to
organise the Irish leg of the adventure.
Thanks to all those who gave up their time
to make this event possible. Many thanks
for all donations gratefully received.
Day
021 > Sunday 22 September > Rome
Back into the fire and furore of the adventure
today, as the team departed for Rome. Again,
the generosity of people never ceases to
amaze us. The couple who own the farm house,
Daniella and Maria, wished us well on our
journey, knocked a sizeable chunk off the
bill and made the team promise to return.
Trying to find lunch en route to Rome, is
not the easiest thing to hit upon in Italy
on a Sunday. Everywhere shuts up shop, but
we managed to find one petrol station and
we stocked up on the healthy eating choices
of crisps and chocolate.
The next challenge for the team was trying
to find the pre-booked accommodation in
Rome. Captain Cook with co-pilot "James
Goody", tried to manoeuvre the streets
of Rome without much success. At least the
team got to see a bit of the city as they
drove around in circles with the James Bond
soundtrack playing at full blast.
Mike has been nicknamed "James Goody",
a combination of two previous nicknames:
"James Bond" and "Goody-two-shoes".
The name Goody-two-shoes stuck because,
as Mike always seems to be on his best behaviour,
everyone is just waiting for a slip up.
Due to the fact, however, that Mike has
no legs; he's become "James Goody 0011"
instead of "007" - the connection
being "legs eleven". It is all
very complicated in the Eighty Ways camp!
Originally Mike acquired the nick-name James
Bond from Caroline; "Mike oozes debonair
charm and sophistication like James Bond,
whilst the rest of us are more like extras
from the Muppet Show!"
"The Muppets" together with "0011"
and "Captain Cook" finally checked
into a Catholic hostel just outside Rome.
For the Irish contingent it was just like
being back in school again. Linoleum floors
and white walls adorned with crosses and
holy pictures brought back strange memories.
Walking down the corridor, one half expected
the doors to be flung open and the corridors
to fill with the noisy chatter of school
girls in matching uniforms.
After the usual reprieve of a half hour
to check emails, phone home and shower,
the team braved the Roman streets in search
of dinner. Dining on pizza and pasta, the
team were almost too tired to speak, although
Miles managed to eat his own pizza and half
of Jon's! On the way home we stopped at
an ice-cream parlour and the boys tried
to chat up a very attractive Chilean girl
- with about as much success as they had
with the navigation earlier that day! Caroline
ran off to follow the sound of a blues guitar
and was found humming along to a blues band
practice session down an alley way. However
she did manage to blag a free C.D, more
than the boys got!
No doubt there will be lots more pizza over
the next few days, but Chilean girls may
be harder to come by. Not that the boys
seem too perturbed, they have already hatched
a plan to get arrested by one of the very
attractive Italian police-women! This trip
is turning into 'Around the World in Eighty
Women' - tongues back in the gobs boys!
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