wekk 06
week 05
week 01
 
 
Week 04 : Rome to The Red Sea

Aoife O’Connell chronicles the adventure in the diary below:

Day 022 > Monday 23 September > Rome

The boys' decided to spend the day by themselves today. Various people needed to be contacted, phone-calls had to be made and several offices had to be visited. So the three buckaroos set off, confident that Mike's wheelchair could make it around Rome and safe in the knowledge that if Miles could climb Kilimanjaro, he could surely manage the streets of Rome.

The ancient city streets proved to be one of the more commonplace challenges for Mike to date. Husky dog sledging, cardboard boats and various other wacky modes of transport have appeared to be surprisingly straightforward for Mike, a challenge yes, but so far he has passed with flying colours. Cobbled streets, however, were not one of the eighty ways the team had planned on. Trying to navigate wheelchair unfriendly curbs and glide smoothly over cobbles was a work-out Mike probably hadn't planned on.

From what I can tell the real challenge of the day was for Jon. Used to enabling Miles to be a free spirited adventurer, Jon seemed pretty confident that he could enable both Miles and Mike to enjoy their day in Rome. It turned out to be quite a trial for Jon who was busy trying to organise a meeting with the Pope, ferret out his PR and Rolls Royce contacts, organise radio interviews and of course decipher the winding streets of Rome. With Miles on one arm, the phone permanently attached to his ear and the map tucked under his arm, Jon Cook showed Rome what real heroes are all about.

Determined not to be beaten by the prehistoric streets, Jon managed to help Mike up steps, over curbs and cobbles, through narrow door ways, lift the wheelchair and give him a push up a steep slope when needed. All the while organising events for the team in Rome, leading Miles and describing to him the various sights.

He managed to navigate the psychotic traffic with a wheel chair and a blind man and even had the good humour to laugh about it; "it was really funny actually, I could see all the drivers staring at me bemused, they must have been thinking what this guy is at"

The truth of the matter is what Jon's 'at' is probably one of the most amazing things any one can be at. It's hard work, it's tiring and it can be demanding but Jon is always there for Miles and Mike. He never gets angry or raises his voice and he never says no. He has no part of the lime-light, his picture is not on the postcard or his name is not splashed about as an adventurer. This is funny really when you think of it, because he embodies the spirit of adventure and exploration. Jon never shies from the challenge.

A truly brave and gutsy person, he keeps pushing the boundaries, he refuses to accept that people with disabilities cannot do what they want. He has the mettle to leave his family; his job and everything he knows to travel around the world making other peoples dreams come true. He is at Miles' side for every adventure, he brings young people to Ghana, Africa every year to work on development projects with local people, and he has enabled Mike and Caroline to be part of this adventure too.

There will be many unsung heroes by the time December 3rd rolls around, methinks Jon Cook will be very near top of the list.

Day 023> Tuesday 24 September > Rome

The more I watch the Eighty Ways team in action, the more I realise that the challenge is not simply the eighty ways of transport, but in living in a world that has some how failed to notice that we do not all share the same abilities or capabilities.

Every-day experiences that we all take for granted, are just that bit more taxing for the three adventurers. Simple things like trying to check in at an airport, when the check in desk is way above your eye level, or struggling to fill in a form because the print is too minuscule or even choosing what you want to eat from a 'serve yourself' breakfast bar is a experiment when you can't see what's on offer!

Mike made the point today that many spinally injured people have given up going on holiday. It can be too difficult to pre-plan; you can be told your hotel room is specially adapted for wheelchair users and then it turns out they have forgotten to make the shower accessible for wheelchairs. Going to local tourist sites are out due to narrow spaces and lack of wheelchair ramps. Today however, Mike, Caroline and Jon decided to turn that theory on its head.

Admiring Rome from the top of the Spanish steps, the team quickly realised there didn't seem to be an elevator or any other way of getting down the steps, except to go the long way down through winding streets. Staring down at the tourists languishing on the steps eating ice-cream and pizza the team decided it was time for yet another challenge.

Wicked grins on their faces, Caroline and Jon took either end of the wheelchair and gently bumped Mike the whole way down the Spanish steps in Rome. For those of you who don't know Rome, we are not talking a few steps here, and they are certainly not deserted either.

It was fascinating to watch people's reactions, some people refused to get out of Mike's way and the team had to keep asking them nicely to move, some of the tourists jumped up immediately and even tried to lend a hand. Others just stared baffled as to why Mike would bother.

If every other tourist in Rome can walk down the magnificent Spanish Steps, the team were determined that Mike would be able to make his way down too. Caroline and Jon were out of breath but completing the challenge and the amusement it created meant the challenge was a point worth making.

Day 024 > Wednesday 24 September > Rome

They say good things come to those who wait. This morning in the Vatican City it seemed as though everyone present had waited their whole lives for an audience for the Pope. So you can imagine how self conscious the team felt as they were ushered on to the altar to be seated ten feet from Il Papa.

The energy was incredible. People were singing and whooping with joy. There were flags flying the colours of countless different countries throughout the world. Religious orders were only a small minority amongst the crowd of all ages, colours and nationalities. Nuns were bursting into song; people were screaming 'Il Papa' at their top of their voices. Various organisations, Catholic groups and academic groups would howl with glee when their names were called out by one of the cardinals.

Amid all this zealous worship were the Eighty Ways team transfixed by their presence at such an event. It's strange how this adventure takes itself into tiny churches, community groups, charities and is then suddenly affirmed by one of the most powerful figure heads in the world.

In some ways the Eighty Ways team were a link representing all disabled people at the Vatican today. They were seated in the front row in team uniform visible to everyone; I think they conveyed a proud, dignified and positive message about people with disability. In some ways being blessed by the Pope linked up with the belief people have in the team the world over. All over the world people are sending good wishes to the team, praying for the team, and others gather strength and hope from the team and their message.

Whilst passing through Ireland, a miraculous medal was pressed into Caroline's hand 'to keep her safe' on her journey. Caroline brought the medal with her today and this time pressed it into the Pope's hand. He duly blessed the medal and Caroline plans to return it to the lady when she returns in December. What an amazing little thing this medal will be when it is returned to its owner. Blessed by the Pope, it will have been all over the world, encountered many different creeds and beliefs. It almost like a charm or four leaf shamrock absorbing the positivity, belief and good will of people the world over who have chosen Eighty Ways as their own personal and positive way of affirming life and the joy of living. This message surely crosses all boundaries of race, nation and religion.


Day 022 > Monday 23 September > Rome

A wise man I know is famous for the phrase; "It's nice to be nice it costs so little". I also know a lot of people that have no respect for this maxim; thankfully Mark Shand is not one of them.

Author Mark Shand, who has written the book Queen of the Elephants, Travels on my Elephant, Skulduggery and River Dog could not have done more for the team when they arrived in Rome on their adventure leg. In London on business, Mark immediately put the team in contact with his beautiful wife Clio. From their apartment in Rome Clio rang every contact she had, to try and track down wheelchair accessible budget accommodation. Chattering away for hours on the phone in Italian, she finally found the team clean, cheap accommodation near the city centre. Whenever there was a problem that needed sorting, Caroline gave Clio a call. Clio kept her door open for the team whilst they stayed in Rome and there was always a mug of delicious coffee on offer.

On the last day she and Mark invited the team over to their apartment and laid on a delicious Italian lunch, their charming daughter Ayesha and huge cat Maccondo entertained the team throughout. Both Mark and Clio seemed delighted to meet the team and pledged their support and help in any way they can.

When it was time to leave for the airport Clio grabbed some summer clothes from her wardrobe for the girls and Mark organised taxis. With the exception of Caroline, Mark and Clio had never met any of the team before yet they were willing to share their home and their generosity with the team.

People's kindness has really struck the team. Whether it be welcoming the team into their homes, laying on food, or flying the team to the next destination everyone seems willing to give up their time, money and effort. No sooner had we left Clio and Mark we ran into another 'angel' as Miles said. We were sitting in the departures lounge and a serious situation arose. Mike desperately needed to send a legal document from Italy but there were no stamps to be found in the airport. A lady sitting next to us overheard the conversation and as it turned out Mona was the managing director of a corporate law firm. If Mike would agree she would arrange to have the document sent safely to its destination in France!

Every day the media fill our lives with woeful tales of human cruelty and destruction. One would be forgiven for thinking there are no good people left. Good is everywhere, sometimes you just have to look a little harder for it because it gets obscured by the evil, but the sun is always peeping out from behind the black clouds and it usually manages to get its own way. As Caroline is fond of saying, "The darkest hour is before dawn"

Day 026 > Friday 27 September > Egypt

After a flight to Cairo, a night spent in the airport and an early flight to Hurghada, the team's morale was seriously flagging. However reaching Hurghada put the adventurers back in good spirits again. Hectic is one way of describing the team's time spent in Rome, so they were quite relieved to seek solace under an umbrella by the pool for a few hours.

That didn't last however, as the Nottingham dive team arrived that evening brimming with enthusiasm and energy. Ready for a week of serious challenges, the Nottingham gang seemed to inject a large dose of energy back into the Eighty Ways team. After spending a month in close quarters, the team were also enjoying the new company. Jon and Miles' jokes tend not to be all that funny the ninth time around!

Encouragingly many of the younger divers were very interested in diving with the Eighty Ways team - many of them expressed an interest in diving for the disabled and getting involved. Dive-master Darren Brookes, on foot of meeting the team, has set up a new charity, Diveable, encouraging and enabling disabled people to enjoy the secrets of the watery underworld.

Miles had occasionally seemed quite down in Rome. Ever the adventurer, he really wanted to get his teeth into a physically testing mode of transport. His mood changed with the arrival of the Nottingham team was incredible. Making plans for the next days' diving, Miles sat contently sipping beer and chattering away about his previous diving experiences.

Buoyed by the get-up-and-go attitude of the Nottingham divers, the team seemed refreshed and willing again to take on another Eighty Ways adventure challenge. Phew…I don't know where they get the energy!


Day 027 > Saturday 28 September > The Red Sea - Egypt

It's a whole other world out there, an explosion of the sense's, so it seems only right that finally, a man with no legs, a blind man and a partially-sighted woman can finally experience the underwater adventure that is scuba-diving.

I was the fly on the wall or perhaps more appropriate the fish in the sea watching the experience of a life time unfolding in front of my eyes.

The feel good factor of Around the World in Eighty Ways reached new heights and pushed new limits today in the Red Sea. Caroline, Miles and Mike who had all been told they could never dive because of their various 'dis' abilities finally broke the mould and dived into aqua marine waters in Egypt. It brought back extraordinary memories for all the experienced divers on board as they watched the adrenalin surge through the three adventurers on their return to the boat. Words and pictures are a fantastic medium, but I can honestly say there is no way of expressing the joy and sense of achievement on the adventurers' faces. 'Smile' is just not the right word for the look on their faces, it was like a revelation. Caroline came to the surface first and was shouting with excitement about how "totally fantastic" the experience was. Miles, who has dived in the Red Sea once before, was overjoyed for his team-mates, he was so delighted that this was something they could all challenge and take on, proving that their disabilities don't prevent them from enjoying life.

Mike's reaction for me was the most memorable. Probably one of the most dignified and impressive men I have ever had the pleasure of knowing, Mike actually dropped his own standards for a split second and uttered a few expletives as he came to the surface! Knowing Mike and his beautiful manners, it must have been quite an experience!

The happy faces were not just those of the Eighty Ways team, but also of the Nottingham dive team who were delighted to be part of an experience. The good humour and banter on board the boat was so refreshing and positive. For a stranger to board the boat today, they would have found little difference between the able bodied and disabled people on board. It was a lesson in positive mental attitude. In the deep blue calm of the Red Sea, there are no classifications or labels. No one is a blind diver or a paraplegic diver; they are all divers together experiencing adventure. Diving instructor Jim Corbally summed up the mood in the camp;


"I have been diving for thirty two years and if I never dived again, this week would be the climax"

 

Day 028 > Sunday 29 September > The Red Sea - Egypt

Today was another amazing day in many ways. Mikes diving experience was so profound he said; "I would like to meet the man who ran me over and shake his hand". When a person with no legs and permanently in a wheelchair utters a sentence of such intense depth, you know you've made a difference. Hence, the Nottingham divers felt all their hard work, time and fundraising had finally paid off.

One person I did feel sorry for today, however, was Robin. The team's adventure leader Robin flew out to meet his fellow adventurers in Cairo. He flew from Edinburgh to London on to Cairo and then Hurghada to join them on the Red Sea dive.

Unfortunately his heart condition started to play up, as these things often do at the most inopportune times and he was unable to be part of the scuba dive. Whilst everyone else was kitting up and getting ready for the dive, Robin had to sit in the shade and watch whilst the team got ready for their next challenge without their adventure leader.

Robin came up with the idea for Eighty Ways two years ago whilst sitting in the bath! Originally he planned to go it alone until he met Mike, Miles and later Caroline. His previous idea being that he would be the modern day Phileas Fogg and on completion of the journey, write a book.

He decided to share the adventure with Mike, Miles and Caroline because he really believed their powerful inspiring personalities were something worth sharing with the world. Imagine then how difficult it must have been to sit on the boat today, staring into the water and thinking 'it should have been me'.

To Robin's great credit, he kept his head high. Dignified as always he congratulated his adventurers on their diving progress. At the team meeting, he cracked a joke about being "jealous as hell".

It cannot have been easy to watch your dream being lived by other people, whilst you watch quietly from the sidelines. Two years of planning has gone into this trip on Robin's part. He has invested huge amounts of time and effort in this adventure, but he handled his disappointment with dignity. Yet another challenge for the team, and once again they have passed the test, as I write this Robin is on a plane to South Africa to kick start another adventure route. You can't keep a good man down!



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