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Aoife OConnell chronicles
the adventure in the diary below:
Day
022 > Monday 23 September > Rome
The boys' decided to spend the day by themselves
today. Various people needed to be contacted,
phone-calls had to be made and several offices
had to be visited. So the three buckaroos
set off, confident that Mike's wheelchair
could make it around Rome and safe in the
knowledge that if Miles could climb Kilimanjaro,
he could surely manage the streets of Rome.
The ancient city streets proved to be one
of the more commonplace challenges for Mike
to date. Husky dog sledging, cardboard boats
and various other wacky modes of transport
have appeared to be surprisingly straightforward
for Mike, a challenge yes, but so far he
has passed with flying colours. Cobbled
streets, however, were not one of the eighty
ways the team had planned on. Trying to
navigate wheelchair unfriendly curbs and
glide smoothly over cobbles was a work-out
Mike probably hadn't planned on.
From what I can tell the real challenge
of the day was for Jon. Used to enabling
Miles to be a free spirited adventurer,
Jon seemed pretty confident that he could
enable both Miles and Mike to enjoy their
day in Rome. It turned out to be quite a
trial for Jon who was busy trying to organise
a meeting with the Pope, ferret out his
PR and Rolls Royce contacts, organise radio
interviews and of course decipher the winding
streets of Rome. With Miles on one arm,
the phone permanently attached to his ear
and the map tucked under his arm, Jon Cook
showed Rome what real heroes are all about.
Determined not to be beaten by the prehistoric
streets, Jon managed to help Mike up steps,
over curbs and cobbles, through narrow door
ways, lift the wheelchair and give him a
push up a steep slope when needed. All the
while organising events for the team in
Rome, leading Miles and describing to him
the various sights.
He managed to navigate the psychotic traffic
with a wheel chair and a blind man and even
had the good humour to laugh about it; "it
was really funny actually, I could see all
the drivers staring at me bemused, they
must have been thinking what this guy is
at"
The truth of the matter is what Jon's 'at'
is probably one of the most amazing things
any one can be at. It's hard work, it's
tiring and it can be demanding but Jon is
always there for Miles and Mike. He never
gets angry or raises his voice and he never
says no. He has no part of the lime-light,
his picture is not on the postcard or his
name is not splashed about as an adventurer.
This is funny really when you think of it,
because he embodies the spirit of adventure
and exploration. Jon never shies from the
challenge.
A truly brave and gutsy person, he keeps
pushing the boundaries, he refuses to accept
that people with disabilities cannot do
what they want. He has the mettle to leave
his family; his job and everything he knows
to travel around the world making other
peoples dreams come true. He is at Miles'
side for every adventure, he brings young
people to Ghana, Africa every year to work
on development projects with local people,
and he has enabled Mike and Caroline to
be part of this adventure too.
There will be many unsung heroes by the
time December 3rd rolls around, methinks
Jon Cook will be very near top of the list.
Day 023> Tuesday
24 September > Rome
The more I watch the Eighty Ways team in
action, the more I realise that the challenge
is not simply the eighty ways of transport,
but in living in a world that has some how
failed to notice that we do not all share
the same abilities or capabilities.
Every-day experiences that we all take for
granted, are just that bit more taxing for
the three adventurers. Simple things like
trying to check in at an airport, when the
check in desk is way above your eye level,
or struggling to fill in a form because
the print is too minuscule or even choosing
what you want to eat from a 'serve yourself'
breakfast bar is a experiment when you can't
see what's on offer!
Mike made the point today that many spinally
injured people have given up going on holiday.
It can be too difficult to pre-plan; you
can be told your hotel room is specially
adapted for wheelchair users and then it
turns out they have forgotten to make the
shower accessible for wheelchairs. Going
to local tourist sites are out due to narrow
spaces and lack of wheelchair ramps. Today
however, Mike, Caroline and Jon decided
to turn that theory on its head.
Admiring Rome from the top of the Spanish
steps, the team quickly realised there didn't
seem to be an elevator or any other way
of getting down the steps, except to go
the long way down through winding streets.
Staring down at the tourists languishing
on the steps eating ice-cream and pizza
the team decided it was time for yet another
challenge.
Wicked grins on their faces, Caroline and
Jon took either end of the wheelchair and
gently bumped Mike the whole way down the
Spanish steps in Rome. For those of you
who don't know Rome, we are not talking
a few steps here, and they are certainly
not deserted either.
It was fascinating to watch people's reactions,
some people refused to get out of Mike's
way and the team had to keep asking them
nicely to move, some of the tourists jumped
up immediately and even tried to lend a
hand. Others just stared baffled as to why
Mike would bother.
If every other tourist in Rome can walk
down the magnificent Spanish Steps, the
team were determined that Mike would be
able to make his way down too. Caroline
and Jon were out of breath but completing
the challenge and the amusement it created
meant the challenge was a point worth making.
Day 024 > Wednesday
24 September > Rome
They say good things come to those who
wait. This morning in the Vatican City it
seemed as though everyone present had waited
their whole lives for an audience for the
Pope. So you can imagine how self conscious
the team felt as they were ushered on to
the altar to be seated ten feet from Il
Papa.
The energy was incredible. People were singing
and whooping with joy. There were flags
flying the colours of countless different
countries throughout the world. Religious
orders were only a small minority amongst
the crowd of all ages, colours and nationalities.
Nuns were bursting into song; people were
screaming 'Il Papa' at their top of their
voices. Various organisations, Catholic
groups and academic groups would howl with
glee when their names were called out by
one of the cardinals.
Amid all this zealous worship were the Eighty
Ways team transfixed by their presence at
such an event. It's strange how this adventure
takes itself into tiny churches, community
groups, charities and is then suddenly affirmed
by one of the most powerful figure heads
in the world.
In some ways the Eighty Ways team were a
link representing all disabled people at
the Vatican today. They were seated in the
front row in team uniform visible to everyone;
I think they conveyed a proud, dignified
and positive message about people with disability.
In some ways being blessed by the Pope linked
up with the belief people have in the team
the world over. All over the world people
are sending good wishes to the team, praying
for the team, and others gather strength
and hope from the team and their message.
Whilst passing through Ireland, a miraculous
medal was pressed into Caroline's hand 'to
keep her safe' on her journey. Caroline
brought the medal with her today and this
time pressed it into the Pope's hand. He
duly blessed the medal and Caroline plans
to return it to the lady when she returns
in December. What an amazing little thing
this medal will be when it is returned to
its owner. Blessed by the Pope, it will
have been all over the world, encountered
many different creeds and beliefs. It almost
like a charm or four leaf shamrock absorbing
the positivity, belief and good will of
people the world over who have chosen Eighty
Ways as their own personal and positive
way of affirming life and the joy of living.
This message surely crosses all boundaries
of race, nation and religion.
Day 022 > Monday
23 September > Rome
A wise man I know is famous for the phrase;
"It's nice to be nice it costs so little".
I also know a lot of people that have no
respect for this maxim; thankfully Mark
Shand is not one of them.
Author Mark Shand, who has written the book
Queen of the Elephants, Travels on my Elephant,
Skulduggery and River Dog could not have
done more for the team when they arrived
in Rome on their adventure leg. In London
on business, Mark immediately put the team
in contact with his beautiful wife Clio.
From their apartment in Rome Clio rang every
contact she had, to try and track down wheelchair
accessible budget accommodation. Chattering
away for hours on the phone in Italian,
she finally found the team clean, cheap
accommodation near the city centre. Whenever
there was a problem that needed sorting,
Caroline gave Clio a call. Clio kept her
door open for the team whilst they stayed
in Rome and there was always a mug of delicious
coffee on offer.
On the last day she and Mark invited the
team over to their apartment and laid on
a delicious Italian lunch, their charming
daughter Ayesha and huge cat Maccondo entertained
the team throughout. Both Mark and Clio
seemed delighted to meet the team and pledged
their support and help in any way they can.
When it was time to leave for the airport
Clio grabbed some summer clothes from her
wardrobe for the girls and Mark organised
taxis. With the exception of Caroline, Mark
and Clio had never met any of the team before
yet they were willing to share their home
and their generosity with the team.
People's kindness has really struck the
team. Whether it be welcoming the team into
their homes, laying on food, or flying the
team to the next destination everyone seems
willing to give up their time, money and
effort. No sooner had we left Clio and Mark
we ran into another 'angel' as Miles said.
We were sitting in the departures lounge
and a serious situation arose. Mike desperately
needed to send a legal document from Italy
but there were no stamps to be found in
the airport. A lady sitting next to us overheard
the conversation and as it turned out Mona
was the managing director of a corporate
law firm. If Mike would agree she would
arrange to have the document sent safely
to its destination in France!
Every day the media fill our lives with
woeful tales of human cruelty and destruction.
One would be forgiven for thinking there
are no good people left. Good is everywhere,
sometimes you just have to look a little
harder for it because it gets obscured by
the evil, but the sun is always peeping
out from behind the black clouds and it
usually manages to get its own way. As Caroline
is fond of saying, "The darkest hour
is before dawn"
Day 026 > Friday
27 September > Egypt
After a flight to Cairo, a night spent
in the airport and an early flight to Hurghada,
the team's morale was seriously flagging.
However reaching Hurghada put the adventurers
back in good spirits again. Hectic is one
way of describing the team's time spent
in Rome, so they were quite relieved to
seek solace under an umbrella by the pool
for a few hours.
That didn't last however, as the Nottingham
dive team arrived that evening brimming
with enthusiasm and energy. Ready for a
week of serious challenges, the Nottingham
gang seemed to inject a large dose of energy
back into the Eighty Ways team. After spending
a month in close quarters, the team were
also enjoying the new company. Jon and Miles'
jokes tend not to be all that funny the
ninth time around!
Encouragingly many of the younger divers
were very interested in diving with the
Eighty Ways team - many of them expressed
an interest in diving for the disabled and
getting involved. Dive-master Darren Brookes,
on foot of meeting the team, has set up
a new charity, Diveable, encouraging and
enabling disabled people to enjoy the secrets
of the watery underworld.
Miles had occasionally seemed quite down
in Rome. Ever the adventurer, he really
wanted to get his teeth into a physically
testing mode of transport. His mood changed
with the arrival of the Nottingham team
was incredible. Making plans for the next
days' diving, Miles sat contently sipping
beer and chattering away about his previous
diving experiences.
Buoyed by the get-up-and-go attitude of
the Nottingham divers, the team seemed refreshed
and willing again to take on another Eighty
Ways adventure challenge. Phew
I don't
know where they get the energy!
Day 027 > Saturday
28 September > The Red Sea - Egypt
It's a whole other world out there, an
explosion of the sense's, so it seems only
right that finally, a man with no legs,
a blind man and a partially-sighted woman
can finally experience the underwater adventure
that is scuba-diving.
I was the fly on the wall or perhaps more
appropriate the fish in the sea watching
the experience of a life time unfolding
in front of my eyes.
The feel good factor of Around the World
in Eighty Ways reached new heights and pushed
new limits today in the Red Sea. Caroline,
Miles and Mike who had all been told they
could never dive because of their various
'dis' abilities finally broke the mould
and dived into aqua marine waters in Egypt.
It brought back extraordinary memories for
all the experienced divers on board as they
watched the adrenalin surge through the
three adventurers on their return to the
boat. Words and pictures are a fantastic
medium, but I can honestly say there is
no way of expressing the joy and sense of
achievement on the adventurers' faces. 'Smile'
is just not the right word for the look
on their faces, it was like a revelation.
Caroline came to the surface first and was
shouting with excitement about how "totally
fantastic" the experience was. Miles,
who has dived in the Red Sea once before,
was overjoyed for his team-mates, he was
so delighted that this was something they
could all challenge and take on, proving
that their disabilities don't prevent them
from enjoying life.
Mike's reaction for me was the most memorable.
Probably one of the most dignified and impressive
men I have ever had the pleasure of knowing,
Mike actually dropped his own standards
for a split second and uttered a few expletives
as he came to the surface! Knowing Mike
and his beautiful manners, it must have
been quite an experience!
The happy faces were not just those of
the Eighty Ways team, but also of the Nottingham
dive team who were delighted to be part
of an experience. The good humour and banter
on board the boat was so refreshing and
positive. For a stranger to board the boat
today, they would have found little difference
between the able bodied and disabled people
on board. It was a lesson in positive mental
attitude. In the deep blue calm of the Red
Sea, there are no classifications or labels.
No one is a blind diver or a paraplegic
diver; they are all divers together experiencing
adventure. Diving instructor Jim Corbally
summed up the mood in the camp;
"I have been diving for thirty two
years and if I never dived again, this week
would be the climax"
Day 028 > Sunday
29 September > The Red Sea - Egypt
Today was another amazing day in many ways.
Mikes diving experience was so profound
he said; "I would like to meet the
man who ran me over and shake his hand".
When a person with no legs and permanently
in a wheelchair utters a sentence of such
intense depth, you know you've made a difference.
Hence, the Nottingham divers felt all their
hard work, time and fundraising had finally
paid off.
One person I did feel sorry for today,
however, was Robin. The team's adventure
leader Robin flew out to meet his fellow
adventurers in Cairo. He flew from Edinburgh
to London on to Cairo and then Hurghada
to join them on the Red Sea dive.
Unfortunately his heart condition started
to play up, as these things often do at
the most inopportune times and he was unable
to be part of the scuba dive. Whilst everyone
else was kitting up and getting ready for
the dive, Robin had to sit in the shade
and watch whilst the team got ready for
their next challenge without their adventure
leader.
Robin came up with the idea for Eighty Ways
two years ago whilst sitting in the bath!
Originally he planned to go it alone until
he met Mike, Miles and later Caroline. His
previous idea being that he would be the
modern day Phileas Fogg and on completion
of the journey, write a book.
He decided to share the adventure with
Mike, Miles and Caroline because he really
believed their powerful inspiring personalities
were something worth sharing with the world.
Imagine then how difficult it must have
been to sit on the boat today, staring into
the water and thinking 'it should have been
me'.
To Robin's great credit, he kept his head
high. Dignified as always he congratulated
his adventurers on their diving progress.
At the team meeting, he cracked a joke about
being "jealous as hell".
It cannot have been easy to watch your
dream being lived by other people, whilst
you watch quietly from the sidelines. Two
years of planning has gone into this trip
on Robin's part. He has invested huge amounts
of time and effort in this adventure, but
he handled his disappointment with dignity.
Yet another challenge for the team, and
once again they have passed the test, as
I write this Robin is on a plane to South
Africa to kick start another adventure route.
You can't keep a good man down!
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