Day 043 > Monday 14 October > Mumbai, India

Thought of the day
I am back. My heart raced as we approached the descent. Getting our bags and trailing through customs seemed endless but as we emerged into the arrivals section I heard that familiar shout "Casey Boy". It was Neeraj. I am back! I can not get over how emotional it is to return to India, to the place where my life changed, where I met, loved and was challenged by my elephant, the place where I carried out a life time dream. The smells, the sounds, the bubble of curious faces, the heat, the grit, the unpredictability, the colours, the fairy lights, the music, the dust, the smell of chai, the shaking heads - I love it, I love it. Seeing Neeraj's face again looking into those eyes that so often gave me counsel, the smile, the mad English he speaks, our common language - it was like I had never left. I clutched my Ganesh. I felt back in my second home.

Day 044 > Tuesday 15 October > Mumbai, India.

Thought of the Day
Yesterday was spent trying to catch up on the infinite amount of lost sleep. Everyone seemed listless or comatose and after partaking with Neeraj of our evening tradition of Old Monk Rum and Kingfisher beer, no one was fit for anything. But today, somewhat revived under the guidance of Neeraj, we emerged from hibernation and hit Mumbai on one of India's national holidays Desshara- a festival which celebrates victory over evil or bad and is related to the Hindu book of Ramayan. This festival day is traditionally proceeded by a nine day fast and at sunset on the final day Hindus burn the effigy of Ravana - the king of Shri Lanka, who kidnapped the wife of Ram the major character of the holy book. We watched the celebration on Juhu one of Mumbai's famous beaches. Here we lost ourselves amongst the teeming crowds of colour and excitement. Mike was aghast as he looked on as everyone danced to the rhythm of the beating drums. Flowers, incense, tikka, some mad pink powder, smoke, henna, colourful saris, wide eyed children, trance like beats, fairground madness, luminous pink candy floss, coconuts, balloons, kites, candles - the place was alive as the immersion of the idols of Durga and Kali were danced into the sea. Amongst it all Mike sat in his wheelchair on the sand. Since we began this trip it has always been touch and goes whether Mike should go to India - whether it would be safe enough. Being determined, we were insistent he came and as I watched him take it all in, fascinated, as so many people are, by the cacophony of senses this country offers, I am thrilled we were so stubborn. I really do believe that this team can lead Mike anywhere he wants to go - it's all about finding the right way.

We visited the world renowned Iskon temple of Lord Krishna

Magic Moment of the Day
Watching the sunset over the Arabian Sea with the sounds of India in the air and drinking fresh coconut milk.

Hiccup of the day
Mike and his wheelchair sinking. Ok so we can take Mike anywhere in the world he wants to go but that doesn't mean we won't have a few hiccups along the way. As we all stood and watched the sun dip into the horizon in a pink, blur Mike was sinking. Both Mike and his wheelchair were rapidly descending into the wet sand and none of us noticed until his wheels were half covered. But with a few tugs wiggles and pushes we got him free and brought him to drier sand. The next thing is going to be trying to get the sand out of his spokes - just as difficult a job as removing the ever prevalent dog shit!

Day 045 > Wednesday 16 October > On the train from Mumbai to Bharatpur

· Paschim Express - 2AC Sleeper train

Thought of the day
Getting on an Indian train with a wheelchair is an awful lot easier than getting on a train in Monte Carlo. Amongst the maze of cardboard boxes, chickens, bags of cloth, traffic jams of people, 24degrees heat, 90% humidity we still managed to board the train in total and utter calm and who says that someone in a wheelchair can't go to India - try and get on a train in Monte Carlo!

I love travelling by train - especially in a country like India. You learn so much about the culture and country as you pass endless hours in the heat watching the world slip by in a loose blur and watching and talking with its people as they travel their individual journeys. It always seems that people have stories to tell on trains and are often willing to talk - just to pass time or because the lilting of the train seems to relax our inhibitions.

Being back travelling with Neeraj again, barefoot, dusty and dirty, reminiscing about the elephant journey while perched on the best seat on the train - the open door between carriages was perfect, but the fact the team are here to share it and watching them love it makes it even more special. There are points in this trip that you will always remember and I think hanging out in the corridors of the train drinking our contraband rum and smoking beedies together late into the night talking about future adventures, plans and travelling is one I will always remember.

Travelling long hot distances on trains never fails in making you dream; dream of the next journey, possibilities, potential projects and adventures. It is what I love most about travelling, that feeling everything is possible, that you can go anywhere; you just have to want to do it. I find that when I travel my mind just seems to open in a way it doesn't when I am stationary for too long. It is like that sense of movement makes my mind move and I find ideas flowing through my mind and even better the sense of conviction to achieve them.

It was on a train in Thailand back in November 1992 that I first conceived of my elephant journey and as I watched India roll past not only did I let the video recorder of my mind play past journeys and experiences but I found my heart pounding as future ideas formulated into genuine possibilities - I don't think I will ever rid myself of my adventure bug, maybe travelling by train should be avoided!

Magic of the day
After years of wanting to learn to play backgammon Mike taught me how to play tonight as we sat on his lower bunk on a beautiful wooden travel board he bought in Mumbai. As a child I clearly remember hearing the sound of the dice in the felt dice shaker, the touch of the red and white pieces and the sound as the clicked against each other perfumed with the smell of cigars and whiskey. Backgammon was played in my Uncle Martin's wooden house on an Island in Lough Derg by my Dad, grandfather and uncles after a days shooting. The memory of those thick smokey afternoons as it poured rain outside while as kids we were just happy to play with the wet and patient dogs on the floor, prancing about in our fathers oversized Wellington boots, and pouring over the yellowed and ancient National Geographic magazines all came back to me on the bottom of a blue plastic bunk in India.

I always had been intrigued by the sound and smell and feel of the game - the game that only the grown ups played and never let us touch. However, better late than never - so at the age of 30 I was finally taught by a mini master (grand not short) as we precariously balanced the board on a pillow while balancing a tray of train food and a glass of rum and I would like to report I had a good serving of beginners luck and won two out of the three games and of course - I didn't gloat. Next lesson Mike is going to teach me how to gamble!

Hiccup of the day
Neeraj and I, too busy talking immense amounts of drivel to the train guards and two sheik record producers found ourselves locked out of our train carriage at 10.30 pm and thus had to squash into an abandoned bunk where we froze all night due to an overactive air conditioning unit!

Day 046 > Thursday 17 October > Agra, India

· Ambassador Taxis
· Ox Drawn Cart
· Cycle Rickshaws
· Auto Rickshaw

Thought of the day

"Let it be" This is something Neeraj used to say to me during the first few days I was in India. He used to say it to me, to warn me not to get upset about things that do not go to plan or go horribly wrong. Forced, due to circumstances, I learnt very quickly that certain things only happen in India and if you leave your western mind behind, you nearly begin to enjoy the mishaps. I have learnt it is better to go with the flow, because in reality you get nowhere fighting it. However it was the rest of the team's first experience of India and therefore understandably they were more than a bit miffed that our sunset view of the Taj Mahal was in jeopardy due to a kamikaze detour through the back streets of rural India battling with ox, cows, hairy oversized pigs, camels, chickens, bicycles, rickshaws and other bizarre vehicles to dodge our way towards Agra. Unfortunately though our battles were in vain and our first view of the Taj Mahal was Miles Style - in complete darkness. As they do not light the Taj Mahal at night all we could make out was a bare outline lit gently by the rising moon - romantic yes, but hardly the best light in which to make out the supposed exsquite semi precious stone inlays and white marble and the endless carvings.

Though initially the team were disappointed spirits re-lifted as we planned the return trip for Saturday morning and saw the funny side of looking on at one of India's most prized monuments, in pitch black with a completely blind man, partially sighted girl, man in a wheelchair, partially deaf team manager, very sick journalist, and 3 cameras with nothing to film - it only happens in India.

Magic moment of the day

Dawn in India. As we stepped off the train onto the platform at Bharatpur the familiar smell and colour of dawn in India was there to greet us. For four months I had watched dawn from the back of an elephant. It was and still is my favourite part of the day in India - the sky hung with a thin silvery mist gently unveiling a blushing rising sun. Everything is stirring slowly and sleepily amongst the dust and the bright coloured clothes are so vibrant against the dozing light. The smell of chai and bleary eyed cows hangs in the air and the sound of Morning Prayer and the shuffle of tired feet as they drag themselves to their chosen destinations sooths the soul. I love the Indian dawn for its enchantment and enticing promise of a wonderful day of travel and experience.

Hiccup of the day

Mike's eye of the needle exit. So after our totally unsuccessful view of the Taj Mahal the A team decide to evacuate due to mosquito attack and head back to the hotel. After negotiating the steps with Mikes and his wheelchair we approached the exit. As we got nearer however we realised that the exit that we had entered looked entirely different to the exit we were now trying to leave from. In fact the 10 foot door had been reduced to the size of a 3 and a half foot frame. Ok most things we can overcome but lifting a 4ft 7 inch man and his extra large wheelchair through a 3 foot door is like fitting square pegs in round holes. But as Jon and I have successfully managed lifts onto camels, ostriches, into Tipper trucks, helicopters and cardboard boats we refused to be beaten - actually we had no choice - it was either that or Mike was left overnight with the mosies and a dim view of the Taj. So in a series of circus type manoeuvres and Mike's patience at being mauled like a piece of plasticine, we got Mike out and into the waiting Auto rickshaw - the only disasters being stiff backs and Mike flashing his bottom as his trousers were dragged off him!

Day 047 > Friday 18th October > Delhi, India

· Unlicensed generated vehicle
· Elephant

Thought of the day

Anything is possible in India. Our first mode of transport this morning was a real example of the industriousness of Indians. I still have not been able to manage to get the name of the vehicle we were in - I rather think it doesn't have a name. What I can state however is that it was unlicensed (not good when a police car is behind you) made up of a generator, 4 wheels, a large painted wooden chicken crate and a sort of steering wheel thing. Our vehicle creators, who were also our drivers, had decked out our chicken coop on wheels in garlands upon garlands of marigolds, placed a mattress with a sheet in the back with pillows for us, and seemed so proud to be part of our mad adventure. As we travelled 22km towards Delhi we threw flowers at the endless motorbikes and bicycles chasing us dodged a chasing police car and shouted and whooped our way through roundabouts. Apparently the drivers of such vehicles are notorious for being the road ragers of Indian roads and ours seemed more than adept in this department - traffic literally parted as we shrieked and blasted our horn down the roads. Miles added his own vocal talents to clear traffic by shouting his family call - TIGER - every time some poor unfortunate got in our way. The Indians were so thrilled with this that by the time we disembarked the drivers were whooping TIGER every few seconds. To me, this morning was India at its best - exciting, unpredictable, magical, unique and addictive - a place where the most unexpected things happen. Watching Aoife, Jon, Miles and Mike fall in love with this country has been one of the better parts of being back and as we rattled our way along this morning in utter madness I watched India take a firm hold on all of them - just like I knew it would!

Magic moment of the day

Elephant bound again. 3 Kms away from the Irish Ambassadors residence we met our final mode of transport for the day - a 15 year old cow elephant called Bull Bull. Just the sight of a small pudgy female elephant like Kanchai (Bhadra) waiting on the side of the road for us brought back so many memories of our journey together. I wanted so much to see my own little elephant again. It has been so hard that I have not been able to visit her, to smell her again and just to go for a ride on her. Meeting Bull Bull, mortifyingly I found myself in tears. It is amazing how emotional it has been to return to India again and then to be near an elephant - God the urge to be back on that journey was intense. Bull Bull's mahout saw me cry and told Neeraj to explain to me that he understood because he still misses and cries over his first elephant. That was after he picked his jaw up off the ground after finding out that I had trained as a mahout. We all sat on the howdah for the first part of the journey. Mike sat absolutely beaming - delighted to prove once again that though people told him he could not ride an elephant he was doing it while Miles gushed about the gait of Bull Bull and her gentle rocking. I on the other hand ached to touch Bull Bulls head and sit on her neck as I had ridden Kanchai. As if the mahout read my thoughts he slid down off her neck and offered me his seat on her shoulders. Within a second I slid my legs around her neck and felt that familiar feeling I love so much - the feeling of seeing the world from the back of an elephant, the feeling of elephant hair skin underneath you, the smell of elephant breath the feeling of being close to one of the world's most amazing animals.

The time just flew as we loped our way along the roads of Delhi and though I was thrilled to once again see Philip McDonagh, the Irish Ambassador at his residence, the place I had ridden my very first elephant just under two years ago, I hated the thought of dismounting. But there was still yet a surprise - the mahout challenged me to remount Bull Bull by her trunk. This is something I had never done as I had been taught in Southern Indian tradition to mount an elephant by its right leg! But the mahout was insistent and not wanting to appear like an idiot, I grabbed Bull Bull tow ears and flew up on to her head - not exactly gracefully - but I didn't fall off and that was good enough for me - mind you I did slam my forehead off the howdah - but hey we can't all be perfect.

It really was amazing to be elephant bound again and though I know how much I have missed being around an elephant I can not believe all those familiar feelings that being around Bull Bull reignited in me. But watching the team watch me, I realised more than anything how lucky I was to have done such an amazing journey and how totally unbelievable and unique it was. You have no idea how grateful I am that I didn't listen to all the people who told me I couldn't do it - I am thrilled that I just listened to my own stubborn streak that believed I could. Because not only did we do it, but we had a rare opportunity to experience something totally out of this world, something totally unforgettable and something life changing. That elephant journey is the reason that I am here doing 80 Ways and travelling with people who believe that no one has the right to tell them they can't do some thing that the only limitations are those in our minds!

Hiccup of the day

So who needs sleep? At midnight tonight the team armed with hotel pillows and blankets hopped into a mini van to travel the 4 hours back to Agra to catch sunrise at the Taj. Tightly packed together, with the exception of Mike who had the benefit of the front seat head lolled from side to side trying to find a place to rest and catch a bit of shut eye. We are 47 days on the road today - just a day over half way through and we are exhausted, so a sleepless night is the last thing any of us needed but then again, as much as we are all into experiencing Miles view of the Taj Mahal - the pitch black version - we felt it would be sinful not to try and actually see it by light. Faced with the choice - sleep or Taj Mahal - which would you choose?

Day 048 > Saturday 19th October > Delhi

Camel Cart

Thought of the day

Say hello and wave goodbye! The more hellos you say, the more goodbyes you have to say and I hate goodbyes. Today we had to say goodbye to Aoife as she travelled back to Ireland due to stomach complications as we travelled on to Bangkok. Letting a member of the team go after 47 days on the road was so hard for all of us even though we know she will probably be back again. As we went our separate ways, the loss and gap of Aofie ached as 5 became 4 - none of us knew what to do or say and therefore we said little. It feels that today all I seem to have done is cry. Saying goodbye to Aofie was bad enough but having to say goodbye to Neeraj as well, not knowing when we will meet again, was hell. Our time in India was so short but so magical and that was thanks to Neeraj - who is not only my Indian Guardian Angel but my friend, a friend who has shared possibly one of the most important times of my life with me, someone to whom I owe so much to.

Magic moment of the day

Taj Mahal at sunrise. So when you can see it, it is truly a beautiful place. Dawn in India is one thing but watching the sunrise over the Taj Mahal and spread its pink glow over the white marble is truly beautiful. Looking around me as I sat on the steps watching the sun come up everyone around me was doing the same, just sitting watching, lost in their own thoughts and worlds peacefully allowing themselves the luxury of stopping and watching light mould their vision. It really is a beautiful building, so white, so symmetrical so perfect and of course so romantic in its origin. The idea that someone loved another enough to have such a stunning structure, a building taking 22 years to design and build, does make even the most cynical think. I have to say I really wasn't pushed about seeing the Taj Mahal at all but after being there, I am so glad I did. There is something so enchanting about the place is it at sunrise or moonlight and I think that is because of its story as much due to its beauty and at a minimum you will be at least fascinated by it. I think we all felt both lonely and proud to be there. Lonely because it really is a place you should share with the someone you love and in all our silences, we were thinking about all our other halves who were tucked up in bed in England and Ireland; proud because we have made it this far, because we are travelling around the world despite all the mishaps, misadventures, exhaustion and over cautious advice, proud because we are achieving what we set out to do - prove that you can do it if you want to!

Hiccup of the day

Camels and Mike - shaken and very stirred. After his camel adventure in South Africa which scared him beyond belief, Mike was convinced that a camel cart could not be as bad. But after this morning Mike has definitely decided that camels are just not his thing. Though he did not have to sit on one this time I am not sure that the cart option was any better. Perched precariously at the back of the cart, Mike was nearly bounced out the back once the camel lurched off at top speed. Even when we got the animal to slow down it was like riding over massive boulders which had the effects of sitting on a numatic drill which is not the best for Mike's spasm attacks. If you consider that the cobble stoned streets of Rome caused Mike to Spasm nearly constantly for 2 days, I dread to think what a fifteen minute camel ride is going to mean. All I know is that Mike and Camels are not a match made in heaven!

Day 049 > Sunday 20th October > Bangkok, Thailand

· Tuc Tuc
· Tri Cycle
· Long Tailed Speed Boat - James Bond Boat

Thought of the day

Birthdays don't get stranger! New day new country! We landed in Thailand, local time 6.15 and stepped out into thick muggy heat, dazzed and confused. Within a few hours we found ourselves in the centre of Bangkok faced with the Thailand 80 Ways challenge to drive a tuc tuc, cycle a tri shaw and drive a long tailed boat. When I look back on my 31 birthdays, there has been none as totally surreal as today. Not only was it utterly mind blowing to be driving anything in the manic traffic streets of Bangkok let alone a tuc tuc or tri shaw with no sleep for two nights previous, but then add into that mixture the entirety of Bangkok media out filming, photographing your every move and then you have got a very weird situation. Never in my life have I seen so many television cameras and photographers. As we followed the police escort through the streets, we were followed and raced by endless tuc tucs, motorbikes, bicycles and trishaws carrying bee-like enthusiastic cameramen and photographers not willing to miss the perfect shot. Unfortunately for us we were looking particularly unattractive as we were dripping with sweat! Every time we stopped we were surrounded with water bottles, cold towels, journalists, TV interviews and people genuinely fascinated by our band of merry fruitcakes. Now that is a birthday to remember especially when it was topped off with a surprise Death by Chocolate cake of the most sinful proportions, thanks to Coman and Yvonne, a massive cuddly elephant from the team, which I have been made swear to take around the world and asked to be a bridesmaid. And I thought when I arrived in my hotel bedroom this morning without Aoife's company feeling very homesick and lonely that this would not be a good day!

Magic moment of the day

Cycling in Bangkok. With my sight level, I am not allowed cycle on roads at home, mind you that is not to say that I totally adhere to that rule, much to the fear of my parents, to whom I keep promising to purchase a tandem! Therefore cycling a passenger tri cycle on the notoriously busy streets of Bangkok with Mike as both my passenger and navigator behind me is one of those magic moments! The fact of course that I was leading the pack and trying to race the police escort and reach the potential 30 km an hour that the tri cycles are known to achieve caused a wonderful aura of mayhem. Not only did it have the effect of causing near coronaries for the onlookers but I drove the chasing press to a state of exhaustion as they chased me down the street in 36 degrees heat and 85% humidity - in fact I was trying to avoid their cameras as I was looking non too attractive myself - actually I looked like I had walked straight out of the shower and was wearing an excessive amount of 80 blusher - hardly an image you want all over Bangkok media. Mind you, efforts aside I was caught looking particularly sweaty and unappetising and appeared on the front of three Bangkok newspapers - I can promise that will not be one for the scrapbook!

Hiccup of the day

Miles driving a tuc tuc! There are things I admire and love about Miles - his incredible determination, his dare devil spirit that adventurous streak, and his wonderful ability to judge a situation and the fact that he loves speed. HOWEVER, try sitting behind Miles when he is driving a Tuc Tuc, which is no more than a dressed up golf buggy, and you are faced with oncoming traffic, on the wrong side of the road and Miles decides to hit the gears. I really do believe Miles forgets that he can't see, and while that may be well and good for him, it is not exactly the most comfortable for the rest of us as we watch ourselves plough into a stationary police car!