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Day 015 > Monday
16 September
Executive air travel provides a completely
different experience of flying than standard
air travel. We left Dublin in a Special
Edition Gulfstream IV, powered by two beautiful
Rolls-Royce Tay engines. The cabin was decked
out in cream leather and walnut and we all
had more leg space than we could ever have
dreamed of, including Mike.
Tracey served us with pastries, cooked
breakfasts and drinks as we cruised over
France on a wonderfully clear day. The windows
were so much bigger and clearer than on
conventional planes and the view as we passed
Mont Blanc and the Alps was something else.
Our special thanks must go to the kind donor
of this flight.
Our first impression of Nice was probably
distorted by the cost of the taxis to the
Hotel. €90 out of our very tight budget
hurts when we are doing our best to limit
all expenditure and then to be asked for
about Stg£3.50 for a coke was ridiculous.
Nice itself was beautiful and some of us
set off to walk to the harbour to check
out "Tenacious", the Tall Ship
owned by the Jubilee Sailing Trust and our
means of transport to Monaco tomorrow. Tenacious
and her crew were in fine form and we were
invited on board for a barbecue, which went
on well into the evening. Apart from the
joy of being on board such a beautiful ship
in such a beautiful place the offer of free
food compensated for the extortionate taxi
fares earlier, allowing us all to sleep
more easily.
Day 016 > Tuesday
17 September

Following a full breakfast on board Tenacious
at 08:00 a.m., the team was given a full
safety and operations briefing for the short
voyage to Monaco.
Although only built two years ago, the
Tenacious is kitted out, just as the famous
Lord Nelson, to accommodate able bodied
and disabled crew and passengers on voyages
around the world. En-route to St Lucia,
via the Canary Islands, the Tenacious provided
an exhilarating mode of transport for the
adventurers.
While on board the team climbed 90 feet
above the sea on the yardarm, took the helm,
washed the deck, braced the ship, sung sea
shanties, drank, ate and generally had a
great time in the sun.
The ship sailed elegantly into Monte Carlo
to a reception by the press, T.V. and classical
musicians. Jon gave his first ever T.V.
interview in French, which has now been
shown, un-dubbed, all around the region
so it must have made some sense at least.
The
evening was spent in fine style in a superb
restaurant overlooking the harbour lights,
thanks to the hospitality of Brigitte, Mike's
nearly-aunt (a long story). Brigitte is
one of Monaco's most loved and influential
charity workers and it was a real honour
to share an evening with her and some of
her friends, including the French Consular
Generale to Monaco.
Day 017 > Wednesday
18 September

The number of "beautiful" people
in Monaco increased by 6 today as the 80
Ways team was in town .The official population
on Monaco is around 30,000, all crammed
in to an area of 1 1/2 Km by 1 Km. The plan
for the day was to re-pack, catch up on
e-mails and to have a quick look around
Monte Carlo before heading off for Rome
in the evening on the night train. By early
evening everything seemed to be going well
although the complicated street system of
Monaco, the narrow walkways, high curbs
and steep inclines were hardly wheelchair
accessible. We did, however, manage to make
our way to the Cafe de Paris by the Casino
for a coffee.
Travel to Rome began at 7:00 in the evening.
The driver of the first taxi we summoned
was obviously having a bad day and refused
to take all our bags. Most of the team rolled,
walked and tripped their way to the station
as a second taxi was organised. We bumped
into a couple of holidaymakers from Galway
while we were waiting for our train and
it was encouraging to know that they recognised
us from the publicity we had received in
Ireland last week.
Then the fun began. When the train tickets
were booked, wheelchair access was confirmed
as "no problem". The guy must
have been on drugs! With two of us lifting
the chair from front and back, Mike had
to remove the wheels in mid-air to get through
the door which was 3 feet off the platform.
Once inside the packed train the wheelchair
could not get around the corner or along
the corridor so we had to transfer Mike
onto his narrow shower chair. 6 people,
11 bags, a T.V. camera and two wheelchairs
were then forced through the crowded corridors
into the sleeper compartment, which was
double booked, and 2 hours later we eventually
settled down for what was unlikely to be
sleep, with Carbonara in the next compartment
with his camera and some of the bags.
Day 018 > Thursday
19 September
"Where's my camera?". Carbonara
was almost frantic as we searched to two
sleeping compartments again and again, trying
to avoid the obvious fact that it was gone.
We could not believe that we had walked
straight into the trap, with all our years
of travel experience behind us we still
got robbed. The gangs that operate on the
train to Rome are notorious, as we have
been now told about a million times, for
robbing silently during the night and even
drugging their victims with sprays. We all
felt so stupid, but worse still, we felt
sick that people would target our group
of blind and paraplegic as easy prey.
The formality of registering the loss of
Mike's £14,000 T.V. camera and a bag
of recording equipment belonging to Aoife
was managed routinely by the police and
then we set about the task of getting back
on our feet again. We were in Rome in order
to obtain Indian visas for our Irish contingent
so Caroline and Aoife set off to do this.
The rest of us sat in a cafe at Termini
station and started working on plans for
accommodation and transport.
Robin had also set us a number of challenges
for our time in Rome, including talking
to a group of charity workers, organising
some PR activity, travelling on some typical
Roman transport, meeting up with Rotarians
and, of course, spending as little money
as possible. The latter soon looked to be
the hardest as those few hotels that said
they could accommodate us gave us their
prices. Finally we had a breakthrough and
an offer of a guest house in the countryside
of Umbria. Not cheap but probably ideal
for re-grouping after all that we had been
up to over recent weeks and the hassle on
the train. Late in the afternoon we set
off on a 2 hour journey to Todi and to the
guest house. It was stunning! We couldn't
afford to stay there but we would address
that tomorrow.
We had been challenged to travel around
the world using 80 forms of transport. The
Italian sleeper train was one of them, we
survived but were badly bruised. We are
not, however, destroyed.
Day 019 > Friday
20 September
The theft of the camera is a big problem
for the team. Mike McNamara invested all
his capital on the necessary equipment to
film the 80 Ways adventure and has been
paying his own way in the belief that a
worthwhile documentary will be sold to raise
money for the 80 Ways Foundation and the
charities it is supporting. It is a long
time since I have seen someone looking so
downhearted, made worse by the first offer
from the insurance company which was for
less than half the cost of the equipment,
despite it only being just over a week old.
We need to get Mike back on the road again
and all help will be appreciated. Mike needed
to travel back to the UK to get this problem
resolved and flights were booked for the
evening.
We spent most of the day on the phone,
trying to make the arrangements for us to
meet the challenges we had been set, talking
to contacts, embassies, PR agencies, hotels,
the Vatican, etc. etc. as well as the insurers.
At the same time we wanted to enjoy the
beauty of our location. We had a 270 degree
view which included Todi, vineyards, wooded
hills, hamlets and villages and the river
Tiber.
The run to the airport in the evening took
about five hours, and it was clearly upsetting
for Mike to be leaving the team again but
we do believe an answer to this problem
will be found.
Day 020 > Saturday
21 September
Weekends are taken pretty seriously in
Italy, it seems. So little could be achieved
today apart from responding to e-mails,
washing clothes and resting up. Caroline
is still keeping fit and, so far, has managed
to persuade Miles and Aoife to go running
with her. Even Carbonara fell into her trap
before he returned to the UK. There is only
Mike Mackenzie and me who have not been
caught yet, but I suspect my days are numbered.
The concept of Caroline (registered blind)
taking Miles (totally blind) is a worrying
one but they did return relatively unscathed.
Each weekend Mike has to mix up his quota
of medication for the week. Dosages may
vary depending on blood tests that he administers
to himself, e-mailing the results back to
England for doctors to calculate any revised
dosages. Mike takes around 27 tablets each
day, preferably washed down with a wee dram
of his favourite tipple.
Having locked ourselves away for the last
two days at our secret hill location, we
drove out to explore in the evening. Driving
is so much more fun when one is in a foreign
country, in the dark and with no map and
only a rough idea where one is heading.
After quite a while we eventually found
our way to Porano, near the beautiful Ovietta
to visit a small restaurant we had been
recommended. Porano was a labyrinth of small,
steep cobbled streets and tunnels, which
are always fun to negotiate with Mike. Passers
by always looked at us as if we are stupid
even thinking of negotiating these streets
although I would like to know how the local
elderly or disabled cope, if they do.
The restaurant was fantastic, although
it was a bit odd sat in a cave with water
dripping from the ceiling!
Day 021 > Sunday
22 September
Sunday again, our third in so many weeks,
they seem to be coming at us quickly. All
we had planned to do was transfer ourselves
away from our little hilltop paradise and
head back to Rome. Basically that is all
we did do, but the spirit of the team was
high and the day turned into one of laughs
and blessings. Most of the morning was spent
dealing with issues regarding project organisation
and future route planning in liaison with
Robin and Mary back in the UK.
Eventually, three hours later than we expected,
we loaded the van for the trip back to Rome.
Our first major blessing came from Daniella
and Maria, the guest house owners, who slashed
the cost of our stay with them as a way
of contributing to our adventure. They had
warmed to each of us just as we had warmed
to them and we left with our trust in human
kindness restored after our less than perfect
entry into Italy.
On leaving the villa we noticed a small
Ape Car, a three wheeled agricultural van,
belonging to Cirri who worked at the guesthouse
with his wife. We soon negotiated that Cirri
took the adventurers all along the rutted
country lane from the villa and down to
the main road. The Ape Car, so named because
it sounds like a bee (Ape = bee) strained
under the weight of the wheelchair and the
gang and set off leaning and bouncing along
the track. Another way of transport claimed,
and a fun one too.
It took nearly 4 1/2 hours to get into
and through Rome to the hostel that would
be home for the next few days. Each road
we tried to turn down had a row of policemen
blocking it off and sending us back the
way we came. After passing the railway station
three times, the film Ground Hog Day came
to mind.
We found the Sisters of Mercy hostel quite
charming but quite a contrast to the last
few days. After a pizza and an ice cream
in a local cheap, but charming restaurant,
some retired to bed while the rest of us
sat under a huge picture of the Pope and
typed our diary updates long into the night.
We wonder if we'll get to meet him.
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