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Day 022 > Monday
23 September
Rome has blown us all away today. The amazing
buildings and history around every corner
as a backdrop to a chic style of living,
is so exciting.
For a while we went our separate ways,
the girls setting off to the Indian Embassy
to check on the visa applications and to
go shopping, and us boys setting off to
battle our way through the traffic, across
the cobbles and up and down the curbs. The
great news from the girls was that the visa
progress was going really well and also
that Aoife had bought a new bikini. The
great news from the boys was that Miles
was finally content to go without a packet
of wine gums and we could concentrate on
being real tourists. Well nearly; I'm not
sure many tourists stop every few minutes
to speak to embassies, PR agencies and the
Vatican as they go about their serious sight-seeing.
We turned a few heads as we progressed
through the city, me pushing Mike with one
hand and guiding Miles with the other. Bus
drivers and taxi drivers seemed to find
it particularly amusing to watch. We managed
a tour of the colosseum. Miles and Mike
both entered for free but I had to pay the
full €8 despite being a bit deaf! There
is no justice sometimes.
Inside we were approached by two girls
from America. They knew all about us and
it turned out that they were involved with
a PR group who have been busy organising
our activities in San Francisco, very spooky!
We will be seeing them again in November.
Bob Huddie is the Regional Director for
Rolls-Royce plc in Italy and we joined him
for a meal in a little restaurant next to
the Pantheon. Bob and his assistant Pina
had already been very supportive and helpful
since we arrived in Italy and it was good
to spend a social evening with him. It was
certainly good to have such good advice
regarding the menu and the wine and we were
by far the latest residents to return to
the Sisters of Mercy hostel.
Again, some went to bed, the rest of us
sat again under the picture of the Pope
and updated our diaries hoping for
divine inspiration!!!
Day 023 > Tuesday
24 September
We had turned the Sisters of Mercy hostel
into an office and the morning was spent
phoning and washing, mainly phoning. Our
main contacts were the British Embassy,
the British Embassy to the Vatican, Interazzione
(PR agency), the Scottish College in the
Vatican and umpteen disability organisations
across Rome. The phone seemed to be ringing
constantly. The hardest part was not being
able to involve Mike and Miles and feeling
the pressure as they sat in the office (bedroom).
Miles can be left feeling useless sometimes
which is ridiculous if only he knew how
much he encourages me through all that we
do together.
It took 2 and a half hours from deciding
that we would return the hired van into
Rome and actually getting on our way, mainly
because of all the incoming phonecalls.
Rome has some fantastic driving rules, including
certain streets being reserved for public
service vehicles between certain hours of
the day, which vary from place to place,
and also some streets being closed to vehicles
of certain ages. I expect we inadvertently
picked up a few electronic fines for driving
a van of the wrong colour down the wrong
street and with the wrong wheel trims.
The van was finally dumped and we all congregated
at Harry's bar for a celebratory pitstop......
and then we hit town again. Whilst being
an absolutely delightful city it is still
hard work with a wheelchair and two blind
people, especially with a phone vibrating
in one's pocket every two minutes and streets
full of cobbles. Our target today was the
Spanish steps, all 100 or so of them. I
bet Mike could count on his toes the number
of tourists that have descended the steps
in a wheelchair. Half way down we reached
crisis point. Some of the team were ready
to quit the project and go home, not because
of the steps but because of the enormity
of the of what we were facing each day,
the time away from home etc. etc. By the
time we reached the bottom however, we had
sorted ourselves out. We battled through
the cobbles to the Trevvi Fountain and then
on to a restaurant staffed and raising money
for mentally handicapped people, a unique
venture in the middle of Rome. Earlier,
a phone call had come in saying that we
were going to meet the Pope tomorrow. I
always thought we would.
Day 024 > Wednesday
25 September
I thought Vatican Radio was like a hospital
radio and was just broadcast throughout
Rome or even just the Vatican itself, but
it is actually broadcast all around the
world, 24 hours a day. We reached the radio
station for our interview at 09:30, half
an hour late because the public transport
system in Rome was suffering a general strike
today, just like the tube system in London.
The interview seemed to go well and we
hurried off to meet the Pope in St Peter's
Square.
When I picked up our invitations yesterday
I had been told that we had priority tickets
but to find ourselves sitting in the front
row, on the platform and just 10 feet away
from the Pope for his audience, and with
thousands of pilgrims from all over the
world cordoned off in St Peter's Square
(which is round by the way) was quite surreal.
We also found ourselves to be among the
few who were invited to speak with the Pope
and have the opportunity to receive a blessing
from "His Holiness". The whole
being there thing was surreal but we were
all extremely grateful to all those who
had worked hard to give us this experience.
After a quick slice of Pizza and an hour
of cobble battling we set off for an institute
which houses mentally and physically ill
residents and day patients. Although obviously
well run, it left us all feeling quite disturbed
and very fortunate.
The transport strike was still on and it
took us an hour a forty minutes before we
found a taxi to take us to a press interview
with a national Italian newspaper. It is
strange to think that we are travelling
around the world using eighty ways of transport
but we couldn't even get a taxi.
Vatican radio called back to let us know
that our story was the feature of the week
and that they will be doing update interview
and would also be covering our story as
the leader on their web site.
I always knew we would get to see the Pope
if we wished; "all things are possible".
Day 025 > Thursday
26 September
The guy on the desk in the hotel could
have passed for Manuel from Fawlty Towers.
At 9:15 I asked for some taxis to be booked
for 9:45. At 10:00 Manuel asked what time
we wanted taxis. After a whole catalogue
of confusions relating to bags, bills, keys,
disabled stair lifts and still no taxis
we decided to walk. "Manuel" pointed
to the map, showed us the route and told
us "ten minutes". We were heading
for the Santa Lucia rehabilitation clinic
to talk to patients and the director but
it soon became apparent that we were facing
an epic.
The road fizzled out and we were heading
across a field. Mike had already catapulted
out of the wheelchair which, thankfully,
was funny rather than catastrophic. Earlier
in the week Mike had been relaying to us
how easily paraplegics can literally break
their necks falling out of their chairs,
so it was a concern seeing him flying. Our
ten minutes became two hours and we arrived
late and sweating for our discussions at
the clinic, but had sufficient time to understand
the scale of the vision and level of understanding
behind this amazing resource.
Mark Shand, travel author and documentary
maker, is a friend of Caroline through their
involvement with elephants, and our last
afternoon in Rome was spent at his flat
eating and sharing travellers tales.
From the rooftop terrace we could see across
Rome in nearly all directions, a great place
to reflect on our hectic but full few days
in this most amazing of cities. We had gone
through highs and lows together as a team
but had proved strong during our first "adventure
leg"
Egypt and the Red Sea beckon, but we were
in for a long night ahead of us.
Day 026 > Friday
27 September
Flying from Rome to Cairo took about three
hours, but the wait at Cairo airport for
the flight to Hughada was 6 hours until
1:00 a.m.. Robin was there to greet us at
Cairo airport, after we had transferred
across town from one terminal to another,
but he was rather bemused by the team's
rushing about.
Mike's Catheter had blocked again and half
an hour was needed in one of the dingiest
toilets in the world to sort it out. Travel
can seem so glamorous sometimes but often
the reality is somewhat different. Plastic
seats, strange smells and hundreds of people
mitigated our attempts to sleep until 07:00
a.m when we set off for our next destination.
With a complimentary packet of crisps we
started our descent into what looked like
nothing but desert and landed in Hughada.
The heat was incredible but our excitement
grew as we headed off in the transfer to
the Hilton Hotel who were providing our
accommodation for our time here. The crew
from Nottingham Scuba were joining us in
the evening so we had all day to rest, disinfect,
swim and get
ready for the mayhem of Mary, Darren, Jim
and co.
Day 027 > Saturday
28 September
WOW! Diving in the Red Sea is just incredible.
We had been challenged to dive for five
miles under the sea as one of our ways of
transport, which required us all to take
our PADI Open Water Certificates.
Miles had qualified ahead of us and adores
the feeling of freedom and weightlessness
that diving offers, despite his blindness.
For the rest of us, this was going to be
our first real diving experience after the
theory and pool training we had undertaken
in Nottingham. Regal Diving had coordinated
and sponsored our stay here in Egypt and
we felt we were in the most expert hands.
Mike entered the water with a huge splash
and soon disappeared down below. 40 minutes
later he broke the surface again with the
biggest grin in the world and has hardly
stopped talking about the experience ever
since. Caroline too, like a five year old
with the keys to a sweetie shop, is absolutely
glowing. Diving is an amazing experience
for anybody to have, but when one has the
opportunity despite all the practicalities
of disability, the sense of achievement
and excitement is doubly enormous.
We all agreed it was a perfect day. The
friendship, the sunset, the turquoise water,
the millions of fish and coral, all came
together to become splendid memories for
us all.
Most of all, those who had been working
hard to support us, inspired by the excitement
and characters of Miles, Caroline and Mike
saw their plan come together. The adventurers
and all the supporters agreed to share the
prize for feeling the most contented.
Day 028 > Sunday
29 September
Nine years ago today, Mike had what he
calls his "bump in the Balkans"
which left him paralysed from the chest
down and many other serious injuries. After
two amazing dives which almost completed
our PADI diving qualifications, we managed
to help Mike onto the sundeck at the front
of the boat and we headed back to land,
into the setting sun.
Dolphins gathered around the boat and played
alongside, responding to the whistles and
clapping of the Egyptian boat crew. And
then Mike came out with the quote that stunned
us all; "I would love to shake the
hand of the person who did this to me, and
tell him how grateful I am".
Mike, Miles and Caroline have come to see
their disabilities as passports rather than
restrictions. They find new ways of doing
the things they enjoy and know that, with
the right support and friendships, nearly
anything is possible. I have come to find
the word disability quite irrelevant
and even offensive, as it is only our abilities
that we focus on. Mike, Caroline and Miles
SCUBA dive a bit differently to me, but
all four of us reflected on the beauty of
the day, the wonders of creation and, working
together as friends, the reason for living.
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